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Da cultura global às representações locais: Tradução de códigos de luxo na Angola contemporânea
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Esta investigação procurou compreender como consumidores angolanos traduzem códigos globais da moda de luxo considerando as suas narrativas culturais identitárias. A fundamentação teórica baseou-se no Sistema da Moda de Barthes (1967), nas teorias de Kapferer e Bastien (2009) sobre hierarquização do luxo, nos conceitos de McCracken (2005) relativos à representação de identidade através do consumo, e nas perspetivas de Williams (2003) sobre a análise cultural, com o intuito de preencher as lacunas presentes na atual literatura sobre comportamento do consumidor de luxo em contextos africanos. A metodologia qualitativa incluiu cinco entrevistas semiestruturadas com consumidores angolanos e a análise tripartida (visual, escrita e real) de um objeto específico, os ténis Louis Vuitton Archlight. Os dados obtidos foram analisados através da metodologia de análise de conteúdo de Bardin (2016), interpretados à luz do Sistema da Moda de Barthes (1967) e das teorias de consumo de luxo. Os resultados revelaram cinco mecanismos principais de reinterpretação cultural: intensificação da ostentação através da visibilidade das marcas; criação do “uniforme de luxo angolano” como mediação entre casual e luxo; adaptação funcional privilegiando durabilidade e adequação climática; preferência por exclusividade; e sofisticação do conhecimento técnico. O estudo demonstra que consumidores angolanos atuam como agentes culturais ativos, preservando legibilidade global enquanto incorporam narrativas identitárias locais. Os resultados expandem o conceito de KOLs de Lin (2024) para contextos não digitais e confirmam estruturas hierárquicas de difusão de luxo propostas por Kapferer e Bastien (2009), oferecendo insights para estratégias publicitárias culturalmente contextualizadas.
This research sought to understand how Angolan consumers translate global luxury fashion codes while considering their cultural identity narratives. The theoretical foundation was based on Barthes's Fashion System (1967), Kapferer and Bastien's (2009) theories on luxury hierarchization, McCracken's (2005) concepts regarding identity representation through consumption, and Williams's (2003) perspectives on cultural analysis, with the aim of filling gaps present in current literature on luxury consumer behavior in African contexts. The qualitative methodology included five semi-structured interviews with Angolan consumers and a tripartite analysis (visual, written, and real) of a specific object, the Louis Vuitton Archlight sneakers. The data obtained were analyzed using Bardin's (2016) content analysis methodology, interpreted in light of Barthes's Fashion System (1967) and luxury consumption theories. The results revealed five main mechanisms of cultural reinterpretation: intensification of ostentation through brand visibility; creation of the "Angolan luxury uniform" as mediation between casual and luxury; functional adaptation privileging durability and climate suitability; preference for exclusivity; and sophistication of technical knowledge. The study demonstrates that Angolan consumers act as active cultural agents, preserving global legibility while incorporating local identity narratives. The findings expand Lin's (2024) concept of KOLs to non-digital contexts and confirm hierarchical structures of luxury diffusion proposed by Kapferer and Bastien (2009), offering insights for culturally contextualized advertising strategies.
This research sought to understand how Angolan consumers translate global luxury fashion codes while considering their cultural identity narratives. The theoretical foundation was based on Barthes's Fashion System (1967), Kapferer and Bastien's (2009) theories on luxury hierarchization, McCracken's (2005) concepts regarding identity representation through consumption, and Williams's (2003) perspectives on cultural analysis, with the aim of filling gaps present in current literature on luxury consumer behavior in African contexts. The qualitative methodology included five semi-structured interviews with Angolan consumers and a tripartite analysis (visual, written, and real) of a specific object, the Louis Vuitton Archlight sneakers. The data obtained were analyzed using Bardin's (2016) content analysis methodology, interpreted in light of Barthes's Fashion System (1967) and luxury consumption theories. The results revealed five main mechanisms of cultural reinterpretation: intensification of ostentation through brand visibility; creation of the "Angolan luxury uniform" as mediation between casual and luxury; functional adaptation privileging durability and climate suitability; preference for exclusivity; and sophistication of technical knowledge. The study demonstrates that Angolan consumers act as active cultural agents, preserving global legibility while incorporating local identity narratives. The findings expand Lin's (2024) concept of KOLs to non-digital contexts and confirm hierarchical structures of luxury diffusion proposed by Kapferer and Bastien (2009), offering insights for culturally contextualized advertising strategies.
Description
Keywords
Moda de luxo Moda Narrativas identitárias Estudos de consumidor Angola Sistema da moda de Barthes