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Estudo preliminar para o desenvolvimento de uma gama de extratos de subprodutos agroalimentares com potencial para uma linha de produtos cosméticos
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O estágio cujo relatório que aqui se apresenta foi realizado nas instalações dos Laboratórios Valoren e SiSUS do Instituto de Investigação Aplicada do IPC, em coordenação com o Instituto Superior de Engenharia de Coimbra e a Escola Superior Agrária de Coimbra. Teve uma duração de mil horas entre 12 de outubro de 2020 a 12 de abril de 2021.O principal objetivo deste trabalho passou pelo desenvolvimento de uma gama de extratos de subprodutos agroalimentares, com o intuito de serem incorporados numa linha de cosméticos, contribuindo para a sua valorização e aproveitamento dos compostos bioativos destes subprodutos.Recorreu-se à utilização da cascarilha de café (subproduto da torra de café), e à utilização das ervas aromáticas hortelã e alecrim, que se mostraram e de interesse para a indústria dos cosméticos, muito devido às propriedades dos compostos de valor acrescentado que apresentam.Na obtenção dos compostos bioativos e aromáticos foram aplicadas duas metodologias de extração sólido/liquido: a Extração convencional e Extração assistida por ultrassons. As duas metodologias usadas foram comparadas na sua eficácia de extração dos compostos de interesse, e ainda no uso das matérias-primas moídas como no estado intacto (sem sofrer alterações físicas). Os solventes utilizados para a extração dos compostos bioativos e aromáticos foram a água e misturas de o etanol:água (25%EtOH e 50%EtOH).As análises realizadas incluíram a determinação do teor de compostos fenólicos totais, flavonoides e a determinação da capacidade antioxidante dos extratos. Na generalidade, os melhores resultados foram obtidos utilizando o 50%EtOH como solvente. Verificou-se que o tipo e o estado da matéria-prima, inteira ou em moída, influencia a extração dos compostos de interesse, e apesar de existem variações em relação aos melhores resultados, os produtos inteiros apresentaram maioritariamente melhores resultados.Na análise de fenólicos utilizando o método de extração por ultrassons e a água como solvente, a hortelã moída apresentou os melhores resultados 5,14±0,41 mg AG/mL que se destacam claramente das restantes matérias-primas.vApesar da hortelã ter sido o material vegetal com melhores resultados no que diz respeito ao teor de compostos fenólicos totais na extração com H2O, é importante realçar que na grande maioria o solvente 50%EtOH foi o que apresentou melhores resultados.Relativamente ao tipo de solvente o 50%EtOH foi o que revelou os melhores resultados, existindo um grande desvio em relação aos valores encontrados aquando do uso dos outros solventes testados.O teor de flavonoides foi mais elevado utilizando a hortelã inteira com recurso à extração convencional (4,02±0,40 mg CAT/mL). Este resultado destaca-se largamente dos restantes, sendo o segundo valor mais alto de 3,66±0,55 mg CAT/mL que também diz respeito à hortelã inteira mas com recurso à extração por ultrassom (50%EtOH).Na quantificação da atividade antioxidante, na generalidade a água foi o solvente que obteve melhores resultados, tanto no caso do alecrim como da cascarilha. No que diz respeito ao alecrim, a matéria-prima inteira e o método de extração assistido por ultrassons levaram aos melhores resultados (0,0014±0,0002 IC50 mg/mL), enquanto que no caso da cascarilha e apesar da matéria-prima inteira também fosse a melhor, o método de extração convencional foi o mais eficaz (0,0018±0,0003 IC50 mg/mL). Dos três materiais vegetais estudados, a hortelã foi a que apresentou os melhores resultados com o uso do produto moído e o 25%EtOH como solvente (0,0011±0,0008 IC50 mg/mL).
The internship, carried out between October and April 12, 2021, was held at the facilities of Valoren and SiSUS laboratories of the Applied Research Institute of the Polytechnic of Coimbra. Those laboratories were located at the Coimbra Engineering Institute and the Agriculture School.The main objective of this work was the development of a range of extracts of agrifood by-products, in order to be incorporated into a line of cosmetics, contributing to the valorization of their bioactive compounds and use as ingredients in cosmetics.Coffee silverskin (a by-product of coffee roasting) and the use of aromatic plants, mint and rosemary were used, which proved to be interesting for the cosmetics industry, largely because of the properties of the value-added compounds they present.The bioactive and aromatic compounds with two solid/liquid extraction methodologies: conventional extraction and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The extraction efficiency of the tested methods was compared. The effect of the form of vegetal matrices was studied: intact state (without undergoing physical changes) or ground materials. The type of solvent used was also compared for the extraction of bioactive and aromatic compounds: water and ethanol:water mixtures (25%EtOH and 50%EtOH).The obtained extracts were characterized for the content of total phenolic compounds, flavonoids and antioxidant activity. In general, the best results were obtained using 50%EtOH as a solvent. It was found that the form of the raw material (whole or grounded) influences the extraction of the bioactive compounds, and although there are some variations for the better results, most of the products tested whole show better results.For the phenolics, using the ultrasound extraction method and water as solvent, the ground mint showed the best results (5,14 ± 0,41 mg AG/mL) which clearly stand out.Although mint was the plant material with the best results in terms of total phenolic compounds in the extraction with water, it is important to highlight that, in most cases, 50%EtOH provides the best results.Contrary to the results for the total phenolic content, with better results with the ground mint, the flavonoid content was higher with the whole mint in the conventional extraction (4,02 ± 0,40 mg CAT/mL). This value stands out from the rest, with the second highest value being 3,66±0,55 mg CAT/mL, found on the whole mint when using the ultrasound extraction, with 50%EtOH.Regarding the antioxidant activity (AA) of the extracts, in general, water was the solvent with the best results, both for rosemary and for coffee silverskin. Whole raw material, in the case of rosemary, showed the best results in ultrasound-assisted extraction (0,0014 ± 0,02 IC50 mg/mL), while in the case of coffee silverskin, the conventional extraction was more effective using the whole byproduct (0,0018 ± 0,0003 IC50 mg/mL). Of the three studied plant materials, mint had the best AA with the use of the ground product and 25%EtOH as solvent (0,0011 ± 0,0008 IC50 mg/mL).
The internship, carried out between October and April 12, 2021, was held at the facilities of Valoren and SiSUS laboratories of the Applied Research Institute of the Polytechnic of Coimbra. Those laboratories were located at the Coimbra Engineering Institute and the Agriculture School.The main objective of this work was the development of a range of extracts of agrifood by-products, in order to be incorporated into a line of cosmetics, contributing to the valorization of their bioactive compounds and use as ingredients in cosmetics.Coffee silverskin (a by-product of coffee roasting) and the use of aromatic plants, mint and rosemary were used, which proved to be interesting for the cosmetics industry, largely because of the properties of the value-added compounds they present.The bioactive and aromatic compounds with two solid/liquid extraction methodologies: conventional extraction and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The extraction efficiency of the tested methods was compared. The effect of the form of vegetal matrices was studied: intact state (without undergoing physical changes) or ground materials. The type of solvent used was also compared for the extraction of bioactive and aromatic compounds: water and ethanol:water mixtures (25%EtOH and 50%EtOH).The obtained extracts were characterized for the content of total phenolic compounds, flavonoids and antioxidant activity. In general, the best results were obtained using 50%EtOH as a solvent. It was found that the form of the raw material (whole or grounded) influences the extraction of the bioactive compounds, and although there are some variations for the better results, most of the products tested whole show better results.For the phenolics, using the ultrasound extraction method and water as solvent, the ground mint showed the best results (5,14 ± 0,41 mg AG/mL) which clearly stand out.Although mint was the plant material with the best results in terms of total phenolic compounds in the extraction with water, it is important to highlight that, in most cases, 50%EtOH provides the best results.Contrary to the results for the total phenolic content, with better results with the ground mint, the flavonoid content was higher with the whole mint in the conventional extraction (4,02 ± 0,40 mg CAT/mL). This value stands out from the rest, with the second highest value being 3,66±0,55 mg CAT/mL, found on the whole mint when using the ultrasound extraction, with 50%EtOH.Regarding the antioxidant activity (AA) of the extracts, in general, water was the solvent with the best results, both for rosemary and for coffee silverskin. Whole raw material, in the case of rosemary, showed the best results in ultrasound-assisted extraction (0,0014 ± 0,02 IC50 mg/mL), while in the case of coffee silverskin, the conventional extraction was more effective using the whole byproduct (0,0018 ± 0,0003 IC50 mg/mL). Of the three studied plant materials, mint had the best AA with the use of the ground product and 25%EtOH as solvent (0,0011 ± 0,0008 IC50 mg/mL).
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Keywords
valorização subprodutos agroalimentares extração solido-líquido fenólicos antioxidantes