Browsing by Author "Duarte, Mariana Sousa"
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- Unravelling skin hydration : new trends in moisturizing ingredientsPublication . Duarte, Mariana Sousa; Miranda, MargaridaThe skin is a dynamic organ that plays a crucial role in human health and wellbeing. It is the main organ in contact with the environment and external agents, so it is extremely important to keep the skin barrier hydrated. Moisturizers are topical products that play a fundamental role in any skin care routine, helping to improve and maintain the skin's barrier function. Their mechanism of action is to minimize transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by forming a hydrolipidic film on the skin. Moisturizers can be classified as hydrophilic (humectants) or lipophilic (emollients or occlusives). Humectants, thanks to their hydroscopic nature, are able to capture water, attracting it to the inner layers of the dermis. Occlusives, on the other hand, due to their lipid properties, form a physical barrier that reduces water evaporation. Emollients occupy the space between the cells of the stratum corneum (corneocytes), increasing cell cohesion and controlling TEWL. The cosmetics market has evolved substantially, incorporating innovative ingredients to meet consumer needs. In 2022, Portugal ranked 14th in the European Union, with cosmetics consumption estimated to be 1488 million euros. The popularization of social media and the internet has made consumers more aware of the potential risks associated with the use of various chemicals in cosmetics. Although these substances are legally regulated, with substantial studies on their safety, an increasingly number of consumers nowadays tend to prefer more natural products in cosmetics, especially in the ones that are used in a daily basis. In response to this market need, there has been a considerable increase in the demand for products that not only satisfy their aesthetic needs, but also that display a more natural and sustainable composition. In response, the cosmetics industry has invested significantly resources in developing products based on vegetable raw materials and other more sustainable resources.